Why I Created SpicyIoT

You know how it goes. You start with a simple Arduino project to monitor temperature in your greenhouse. Then you add humidity sensors. Maybe some soil moisture probes. Before you know it, you’re running a dozen different scripts, checking multiple dashboards, and still missing critical alerts because everything’s scattered across different systems.

That was me 8 years ago. My YouTube channel was growing, my commercial growing operation was expanding, and I desperately needed a proper monitoring solution. The enterprise options were overkill (and priced accordingly), whilst the hobby platforms couldn’t handle the reliability I needed for my business.

So I did what any reasonable person would do, spent the next few years building exactly what I needed.

What Makes SpicyIoT Different

I use SpicyIoT every single day to run my actual growing operation, my business. It’s not some theoretical product built in a boardroom. Every feature exists because I needed it, tested it, and refined it in real-world conditions.

The platform handles everything from basic sensor monitoring to complex automation rules. Whether you’re tracking a single temperature sensor in your bedroom or managing an entire commercial operation, it scales with you. Start free with generous limits perfect for hobby projects, then unlock additional features when you need them.

Built for Makers, By a Maker

I’ve kept things simple on purpose. Connect any device that can send web requests – Arduino, ESP32, Raspberry Pi, or even industrial equipment. The RESTful API is straightforward, and I’ve included example code for popular platforms because I remember the frustration of starting from scratch.

Custom dashboards? Drag and drop your widgets however you like. Need alerts? Set up email notifications or webhooks with custom rules. Want to add cameras? Integrate IP cameras or ESP32-CAMs for visual monitoring and time-lapses.

Every feature has been battle-tested in my own setup. If it’s in SpicyIoT, it’s because it proved useful in practice, not because it looked good on a feature list.

No Venture Capital Nonsense

I’ve bootstrapped this entire project. No investors breathing down my neck, no pressure to extract every penny from users. Just solid engineering funded by my YouTube channel and growing business.

This means I can offer a proper free tier that actually stays free. Perfect for weekend projects, students, or anyone just getting started with IoT. When you’re ready for more features, the pricing is reasonable because I’m not trying to achieve a 10x return for Silicon Valley investors.

Your Data, Your Control

One principle I won’t compromise on: your data belongs to you. Export it anytime in CSV or JSON format. No vendor lock-in, no proprietary formats, no holding your information hostage. If you decide SpicyIoT isn’t for you, take your data and leave – no hard feelings.

From Arduino Projects to Commercial Operations

SpicyIoT adapts to whatever you’re building:

• Home Projects: Monitor temperature, humidity, energy usage, or build your own smart home devices
• Growing & Agriculture: Track environmental conditions, automate irrigation, monitor soil moisture and pH levels
• Business & Industrial: Equipment health monitoring, production metrics, environmental compliance
• Education & Research: Collect experimental data, teach IoT concepts, prototype new ideas
• Environmental Monitoring: Weather stations, air quality sensors, water level monitoring

The same platform that started monitoring a few sensors in my greenhouse now manages my entire commercial operation – and it can do the same for you.

Join Me on This Journey

After 8+ years of development and real-world testing, SpicyIoT is ready for you to try. No credit card required, no trial period that expires – just create an account and start monitoring.

Whether you’re a weekend tinkerer or running a business, I built SpicyIoT to grow with your ambitions. The community is already sharing projects, code, and ideas, and I’d love to see what you create with it.

Visit SpicyIoT.com to get signed up. And if you have questions or feedback, reach out. I’m a daily user who genuinely wants to make this the best monitoring platform for makers like us.

Let’s build something brilliant together.

– Shaun (ChilliChump)

In This Comprehensive Guide:

Seasonal transition techniques for hardier plants

Why artificial light can dramatically improve your chilli growing results

Technical specifications for optimizing light intensity at each growth stage

Advanced equipment recommendations based on real-world testing

Precise positioning and timing strategies for maximum yield

Do Artificial Lights Improve Chilli Pepper Plant Growth?

For serious chilli growers, the evidence is clear: properly implemented artificial lighting significantly boosts early growth, strengthens plants, and can extend your productive season substantially. While a sunny windowsill provides some benefits in spring, winter months present significant challenges with both light duration and intensity, especially for those of us living farther from the equator.

Chilli peppers are essentially tropical plants demanding long growing seasons with abundant light. Without supplemental lighting, achieving impressive harvests becomes exceptionally difficult in many growing zones. The technical advantage of artificial grow lights is their precision, allowing you to deliver exactly the spectrum and intensity your plants need during critical developmental stages.

One major benefit that experienced growers appreciate is location flexibility. With proper artificial lighting, you can transform almost any space with electricity into a productive growing environment, whether that’s a dedicated grow room, greenhouse or polytunnel, shed, or garage corner. In my setup, I’ve converted my potting shed into a highly controlled environment where I can manage both light conditions and temperature with precision during those crucial early growth stages.

For those committed to maximum self-sufficiency, artificial lighting also enables year-round growing cycles for various crops, allowing continuous harvests regardless of outdoor conditions.

Technical Timing: When to Deploy Your Grow Lights

Contrary to what some beginners believe, seeds don’t require light for germination, they need proper soil temperature and moisture. However, the moment those seedlings break through the soil surface, lighting becomes critical.

When seedlings emerge (one of the most satisfying moments for any serious grower), they immediately begin searching for light. Without adequate overhead light, they stretch toward whatever light is available, resulting in weak, leggy plants. Under proper artificial lighting, your seedlings develop the strong, compact structure that sets the foundation for productive mature plants.

If your seeds haven’t germinated within the expected timeframe, adding artificial light as a precautionary measure ensures you won’t miss that crucial moment when the first shoots emerge. After years of experimentation and refinement, I’ve found that properly timed artificial lighting from the earliest stages directly correlates with vigor, health, and ultimately, yield at harvest time. Why not check out my top tips for sowing chilli pepper seeds.

Technical Specifications: Precise Light Requirements for Chilli Plants

When using artificial lighting, your goal is to replicate optimal natural growing conditions. For chilli peppers, this typically means providing 12-14 hours of quality artificial light daily, supplemented with natural sunlight when available. In purely indoor setups with zero natural light, extending artificial lighting to 14-16 hours may be necessary.

Understanding the technical aspects of light measurement is essential for optimization. Daily Light Integral (DLI), the total light a plant receives in 24 hours, measured in moles per meter squared daily, varies based on growth stage, plant health, ambient temperature, humidity, and CO2 levels.

A critical concept for serious growers to grasp: humans and plants perceive light differently. Our eyes are most sensitive to yellow and green wavelengths, while plants utilize the entire light spectrum. This explains why lights that appear intensely bright to us often deliver only medium or even low intensity for plants.

Most commercial grow lights focus on specific parts of the spectrum optimized for vegetative growth or flowering/fruiting stages. For those looking to maximize results, understanding these technical distinctions makes all the difference.

Equipment Selection: Optimal Lighting Technology for Serious Growers

For dedicated chilli growers committed to excellence, two primary lighting technologies stand out: LED and fluorescent systems. Each has distinct advantages depending on your growing stage and objectives.

LED Systems

LED technology has transformed indoor growing with superior efficiency, lifespan, and spectral control. For serious growers, these advantages often justify the higher initial investment:

• Viparspectra XS1000 [Link: https://geni.us/xs1000] – Excellent balance of quality and value for medium-sized operations
• Spiderfarmer SF1000 [Link: https://geni.us/spiderfarmersf1000] – Precision light distribution with exceptional energy efficiency
• Marshydro TS3000 [Link: https://geni.us/mh_ts_lights] – Massive coverage area for larger growing operations

Fluorescent Systems

For early growth stages and seedlings, fluorescent lighting remains highly effective and cost-efficient:

• 2ft x 4 bulb T5 System [Link: https://geni.us/t5maxibright] – Ideal for seedling stations and early growth
• Budget-friendly 24W CFL [Link: https://geni.us/cfl_24w] – Perfect for small-scale growers or supplementary lighting
• High-output 105W T5 [Link: https://geni.us/t5_105w] – Professional-grade output for serious seedling operations

Technical Measurements: Understanding Lux, Lumens, and PAR

For growers seeking to maximize results through precision, understanding the technical measurement of light is essential:

Lumens

Lumens measure light intensity as perceived by humans, focusing primarily on green and yellow wavelengths. Remember the critical principle: “Lumens are for humans” – they’re not the most relevant measurement for plant growth.

LUX (Luminous Flux)

Lux measures lumens falling on a square meter of surface area. While not plant-specific, lux readings can help you position your lights appropriately relative to your plants’ canopy.

PAR (Photosynthetically Active Radiation)

PAR is the gold standard measurement for serious growers, measuring the specific wavelengths plants use for photosynthesis. PAR is measured in micromoles per square meter per second (μmol/m²/s) and provides the most accurate assessment of light useful to your plants.

PAR measures evenly across the visible spectrum, including the crucial red and blue wavelengths that drive photosynthesis, making it vastly more relevant than lumen measurements.

Advanced Measurements: PPF and PPFD

• PPFD (Photosynthetic Photon Flux Density): The actual PAR reaching a specific area (μmol/m²/s) – this is what your plants experience

• PPF (Photosynthetic Photon Flux): Total photons emitted by a light source per second (μmol/s)

Technical Positioning: Optimizing Light Distance for Maximum Results

The precise positioning of your grow lights depends on both the light type and growth stage. For chilli peppers specifically, aim for these technical targets:

• Early seedlings: Approximately 2,500 lux at the canopy
• After one month: Increase to around 6,000 lux

For those using PAR measurements (recommended for serious growers), follow these specific guidelines based on growth stage:

• Seedlings: Maximum 100 μmol/m²/s
• First few months post-germination: 400-500 μmol/m²/s maximum
• Mature plants: 900-1,200 μmol/m²/s

These specifications may require adjusting your light fixtures throughout the growing cycle, moving from lower intensity to higher as plants mature.

For growers using modern full-spectrum LED lights without expensive PAR meters, I’ve developed a correlation chart between inexpensive lux meters and PAR readings. Remember that these recommendations provide a safe starting point – you can gradually increase light output while monitoring plant health.

Recommended Measurement Tools:

Budget Option: LUX Meter

Professional Options: MQ500 PAR Meter or SQ520 PAR Meter

Your plants communicate light stress clearly: insufficient light causes stretching and weakness, while excessive light produces leaf bleaching, curling, darkening, or even burning. For detailed light measurement guidance, watch my technical breakdown: Light Measurement for Serious Growers

Seasonal Transition: When to Phase Out Artificial Lighting

While artificial lighting provides precise control, natural sunlight remains the ultimate light source for chilli peppers. Transition your plants to outdoor conditions once they’re sufficiently developed and after the last frost date has passed.

For experienced growers, proper hardening off is essential: gradually introduce seedlings to outdoor conditions a few hours daily, slowly increasing exposure time. During this transition period, continue using grow lights when plants are indoors to prevent regression.

Ideally, move plants outdoors approximately two weeks after the last frost date to protect your investment of time and effort. Proper timing during this transition directly impacts flowering time and overall harvest volume.

For growers with limited outdoor space or challenging climates, artificial lighting may remain necessary year-round for continuous production.

Conclusion: Mastering Artificial Light for Championship Harvests

For dedicated chilli heads looking for great results, mastering artificial lighting provides a significant competitive advantage. With proper equipment selection, precise technical understanding, and careful implementation, you’ll consistently produce stronger plants, earlier harvests, and superior yields.

Monitor your plants closely as they develop, adjusting light, water, and nutrients to achieve their maximum genetic potential. The attention to detail separates casual growers from true chili masters.

If you found this technical guide valuable, consider subscribing for alerts when new advanced growing articles are published. For a comprehensive overview of chilli cultivation techniques, watch my Beginner’s Guide to Growing Chillies, which covers lighting alongside other critical growing factors.

And if you found these resources useful, you might also be interested in my Mastering Chilli Seedling Care: Expert Tips, Planting Super Hot Chilli Pepper Seeds: A Comprehensive Guide to Successful Germination and Growth and The Best Potting Soil Mix for Chilli Pepper Plants.

Artificial Grow Lights: Boost your Plant Growth – FAQs

How can I maintain optimal light conditions during winter months?

The technical information in this article provides the framework for supplemental lighting during low-light periods. Investing in quality grow lights and proper measurement tools gives you complete environmental control year-round, essential for serious growers looking to maximize their growing season.

What specific benefits do artificial lights provide for dedicated chilli growers?

Beyond simply extending your growing season, properly implemented artificial lighting allows precision control over spectrum and intensity at each growth stage, enables utilization of otherwise unsuitable spaces, and facilitates continuous growing cycles for maximum annual production.

Which lighting systems deliver the best results for serious indoor chilli cultivation?

For professional-level results, I recommend:

LED Systems:

• Viparspectra XS1000: https://geni.us/xs1000
• Spiderfarmer SF1000: https://geni.us/spiderfarmersf1000
• Marshydro TS3000: https://geni.us/mh_ts_lights (for larger operations)

Fluorescent Systems:

• 2ft x 4 bulb T5: https://geni.us/t5maxibright
• Economy 24W CFL: https://geni.us/cfl_24w
• High-output 105W T5: https://geni.us/t5_105w

The flow for this episode can be imported from here: https://pastebin.com/daQrj4SE

To import this into Node-Red, click on the three lines on the top right of node-red, and select “import”.

Paste the text, and import (either to the current flow, or to a new flow).

Since showing my Automation setup for my greenhouse and garden, people have been asking how they can do it too. So I created a series to show you how! This is my Beginners Guide to Automation. It is meant for anyone to follow along! A lot of the time learning things like this may seem intimidating if you have never done anything like it before. I would like people young and old, with any level of experience to be able to learn along with this series and do some really cool things by the end of it!

Below is a list of things I would recommend you consider purchasing:

Tools
Multimeter: https://geni.us/ut139c
Soldering Iron: https://geni.us/fx888d
Solder wire: https://geni.us/solder_06mm
Precision Screwdriver set: https://geni.us/draper_precision
Wire stripper: https://geni.us/wire_strip_fatmax
Prototyping Breadboards: https://geni.us/3breadboard
Magnetic Helping Hands: https://geni.us/mag_helphands
Cheap Helping Hands: https://geni.us/chp_helphands
Silicone Mat: https://geni.us/silimat

Electronics
ESP32:
-Amazon: https://geni.us/esp32
-Bangood: https://www.banggood.com/custlink/3mGvbiz2M4
ESP8266:
-Amazon: https://geni.us/esp8266
-Bangood: https://www.banggood.com/custlink/DK3vQSqkTR
DHT22 temp/hum sensor with pullup:
-Amazon: https://geni.us/dht22_pullupinc
-Bangood: https://www.banggood.com/custlink/G33Knlmm8R
High precision temp/hum sensor: https://geni.us/bme280
Single relay (3.3v): https://www.banggood.com/custlink/KKKDAoGKFe
6ch relay (3.3v): https://www.banggood.com/custlink/DGDvAoKmVk
8ch relay (3.3v): https://www.banggood.com/custlink/vGm3ALmmtQ
Photoresistors: https://geni.us/photoresistors
Buck Converters (regulate voltage efficiently): https://geni.us/buckconverter
Breadboards: https://geni.us/bread_board

Server
Raspberry Pi 4: https://geni.us/rpi4b2gb (You can use other Raspberry Pi’s)
Raspberry Pi 4 Case: https://geni.us/rpi4case (This is the one I have, but choose the one you like)
Raspberry Pi 4 Power Supply: https://geni.us/rpi4power
MicroSD Card 32gb: https://geni.us/32gbmicrosd

Video Explanation of the Automated Ebb & Flood System

Our recent video showcase dives deep into the intricacies of the “Hydroponics Automation – Ebb & Flood” system, offering viewers a hands-on guide on how to build an automated version of this traditional method. Why automate, you ask? Automation ensures that plants receive the right amount of water at precise intervals, maximizing growth while minimizing resource wastage. Moreover, the convenience of automation means you can maintain a thriving hydroponic garden with minimal daily intervention. For those eager to implement this system, the accompanying article provides the complete code used in the video. Dive in and explore the seamless amalgamation of nature’s wisdom and modern technology.

Schematic for this basic Automated Ebb & Flood System

Code for the Automated Ebb & Flood Hydroponic System

/*
Author: Shaun AKA Chillichump
chillichump.com
www.youtube.com/chillichump
*/
const String swName = "ChillichumpIO Ebb&Flood Basic";
const String swVer = "1.1";
const String swRel = "09/03/19";

/* Common Millis equivalents
   4 hours = 14400000; 2 hours = 7200000; 1 hour = 3600000
   10 minutes = 600000; 5 minutes = 300000; 2 minutes = 120000; 1 minute = 60000
*/

const long floodIntMillis = 60000; //millis between flooding
const long floodDurMillis = 5000; //millis for flood duration
const long longestDelayBetweenFlooding = 43200000; //longest acceptable delay between flooding. This ensures flooding occurs even if lights fail etc. 43,200,000 is 12 hours
const int lightLevel = 600; //this value indicates whether the sun is up. Value out of 1023. higher = lighter (indirect sun is around 850; normal indoor lighting is around 650)
const long lightLevelDelay = 20000; //delay before deciding it is daylight. To avoid lights, torches etc. causing issues
const byte pumpPin = 6; //pin number for activating relay for pump
const byte pinLightSensor = A2; //pin number for light sensor

unsigned int lightSensorNow = analogRead(A2);
unsigned long sunUpMillis = 0;
unsigned long sunDownMillis = 0;
unsigned long pumpLastOn = floodIntMillis + lightLevelDelay; //ensuring pump comes on when device is turned on and it is light
unsigned long pumpOffAt = 0;
boolean sunUpCheck = false;
boolean sunDownCheck = false;
boolean sunUp;
boolean lastState = false;


void setup() {
  pinMode(pumpPin, OUTPUT);
  digitalWrite(pumpPin, LOW); //pump off
}


void loop() {
  lightSensorNow = analogRead(pinLightSensor);
  if (lightSensorNow >= lightLevel && sunUp == false) {
    sunUp = true;
  }
  if (lightSensorNow < lightLevel && sunUp == true) {
    sunUp = false;
  }

  if (sunUp == true && sunUpCheck == false) { //checking if sun is up or lights on
    sunUpMillis = millis();
    sunUpCheck = true;
  }
  if (sunUp == false && sunDownCheck == false) { //checking if sun is down or lights are off
    sunDownMillis = millis();
    sunDownCheck = true;
  }
  if (sunUp == true && millis() - sunUpMillis > lightLevelDelay && sunDownCheck == true) { //checking if sun has been up or lights have been on longer than lightLevelDelay
    sunDownCheck = false;
  }
  if (sunUp == false && millis() - sunDownMillis > lightLevelDelay && sunUpCheck == true) { //checking if sun has been down or lights have been off longer than lightLevelDelay
    sunUpCheck = false;
  }

  if (millis() - sunUpMillis > lightLevelDelay && sunUpCheck == true ) { //checking that there has been light longer than the lightLevelDelay
    if (millis() - pumpLastOn > floodIntMillis || millis() < pumpLastOn) { //checking when the pump was last on. also checking if the sun has just come up or lights are on to ensure a flooding at first light.
      pumpLastOn = millis();
      pumpOffAt = millis() + floodDurMillis; //pumpOffAt has been added so that the pump doesn't switch off during a cycle if the lights go our or sun goes down
    }
  }

  if (millis() - pumpLastOn > longestDelayBetweenFlooding && millis() > longestDelayBetweenFlooding) { //ensuring there is water at least every x hours
    pumpLastOn = millis();
    pumpOffAt = millis() + floodDurMillis;
  }

  if (millis() < pumpOffAt) { //turning the pump on
    digitalWrite(pumpPin, HIGH); //pump on
  } else {
    digitalWrite(pumpPin, LOW); //pump off
  }


}

Download the Arduino Code

This article is an accompaniment to this youtube video (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yqmOp7m4szA). See below the code for the two examples mentioned in the video. Don’t forget to visit Ubidots: http://bit.ly/ubidotsCC

The parts I use in this video:

• Wemos D1 Mini
• Temp and Hum Sensor
• Soldering iron I use

Wemos D1 Mini and DHT22 (AM2032) Sensor

//Make sure you setup the ESP8266 Board
//File - Preferences - Additional Board References URL
//http://arduino.esp8266.com/versions/2.3.0/package_esp8266com_index.json

#include "DHT.h" //https://github.com/adafruit/DHT-sensor-library

#define DHTPIN 5 //Pin D1

#define DHTTYPE DHT22 //Temp and Humidity Sensor we are using


DHT dht(DHTPIN, DHTTYPE);

void setup() {
  Serial.begin(115200);
  Serial.println("Initialised...");

  dht.begin();
}

void loop() {

  delay(1500);
  float h = dht.readHumidity();
  // Read temperature as Celsius (the default)
  float t = dht.readTemperature();


  // Check if any reads failed and exit early (to try again).
  if (isnan(h) || isnan(t)) {
    Serial.println("Failed to read from DHT sensor!");
    return;
  }
  Serial.print("Humidity: ");
  Serial.print(h);
  Serial.print("   Temperature: ");
  Serial.println(t);
}

IOT: Connecting to WiFi and uploading to Ubidots

#include "DHT.h" //https://github.com/adafruit/DHT-sensor-library
#include <ESP8266WiFi.h>
#include "UbidotsESPMQTT.h"
#define DHTPIN 5 //Pin D1

#define DHTTYPE DHT22 //Temp and Humidity Sensor we are using


#define TOKEN "xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx" // Your Ubidots TOKEN

#define WIFINAME "SSID" //Your SSID
#define WIFIPASS "PASSWORD" //Your Wifi Pass

DHT dht(DHTPIN, DHTTYPE);


Ubidots client(TOKEN);

void callback(char* topic, byte* payload, unsigned int length) {
  Serial.print("Message arrived [");
  Serial.print(topic);
  Serial.print("] ");
  for (int i=0;i<length;i++) {
    Serial.print((char)payload[i]);
  }
  Serial.println();
}

void setup() {
  client.setDebug(true);
  Serial.begin(115200);
  client.wifiConnection(WIFINAME, WIFIPASS);
  client.begin(callback);
  
  Serial.println("");
  Serial.println("WiFi connected");  
  Serial.println("IP address: ");
  Serial.println(WiFi.localIP());

  dht.begin();
}

void loop() {


  float h = dht.readHumidity(); //Humidity in %
  float t = dht.readTemperature(); //Temp in Celsius

  if (isnan(h) || isnan(t)) { //Did the sensor read fail?
    Serial.println("Failed to read from DHT sensor!");
    return;
  }
  
  Serial.print("Humidity: ");
  Serial.print(h);
  Serial.print("   Temperature: ");
  Serial.println(t);

  if(!client.connected()){
      client.reconnect();
  }

  client.add("temperature", t);
  client.add("humidity", h);
  client.ubidotsPublish("Temp_Humidity_SmallGH");
  client.loop();

  delay(60000);
  


}